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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place earning such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.